Until people were able to culture or counterfeit them, pearls once outshone diamonds as the most valuable gems. Today, real and imitation pearls are affordable enough to use as accents on crafts, fashion jewelry, and embroidery projects as well as in fine jewelry. The selection of pearls online includes everything from vintage jewelry to pearl beads ready for stringing into new pieces.
Pearls come from oysters or mussels, so unlike other gems, they are a renewable resource. Most mollusks form pearls, but only those from certain species of oysters and mussels have the luster and iridescence that makes them valuable.
The soft-bodied creatures cannot escape from irritants that find their way into the animals' shells, so they protect themselves by coating the offending item with layers of nacre, the substance that gives pearls their lustrous shine.
When pearls could be cultured, their value took a precipitous drop. With improvements in imitation glass and plastic pearls, the genuine gems dipped in value again. Pearls and pearly materials have become affordable enough to use as everyday jewelry and even decorative items.
Until the 20th century, pearls could not be cultivated and occurred naturally, which meant that pearls were quite rare. Divers in pearl-producing regions brought up and opened hundreds of oysters to find a single pearl, and the pearls produced were not always the round and luminous gems suitable for jewelry. Almost all pearls today are cultured.
Pearl makers do not always agree on the terminology of their products. Some trade names mean different things to different companies, and a few are hotly debated. When buying pearls online, consider the quality of the pearl instead of focusing on the trade name.
True natural pearls are made entirely of nacre and can cost thousands of dollars per pearl for large, round gems with good color.
They occur randomly in pearl-producing species of oysters, so matching them for a pair of earrings or a whole strand can take a jeweler years of effort. Genuine natural pearl strands are almost impossible to find new, and vintage strands can cost millions.
However, the natural designation for pearls is not restricted. It has been appropriated by some manufacturers for any pearl that is produced by an oyster or mussel, including cultured pearls and freshwater pearls. Some sellers list their gems as natural freshwater pearls or natural cultured pearls to differentiate them from imitation pearls made of plastic or glass. Price is an indicator of a pearl's origin; a naturally occurring pearl will command a far higher price than other pearls.
Cultured pearls are the same on the outside as natural pearls, and they share the same luster. The difference is on the inside. Cultured pearls start not from a natural irritant, but from a piece of foreign material introduced into the cultivated mollusk's shell.
X-rays can tell cultured pearls from natural pearls, but they are otherwise indistinguishable if the cultured pearls are of good quality. Inexpensive cultured pearls cost less because they are collected before they have a thick layer of nacre; they may have less depth or iridescence than high-quality cultured pearls.
Oysters are not the only mollusks that produce gem-quality pearls. Freshwater mussels also produce pearly nacre, so they can also make attractive pearls. Gems sold as freshwater pearls include small, elongated seed pearls as well as round, lustrous cultured pearls.
Their freshwater origin lowers the price of pearls, but it makes little difference in their appearance. Natural freshwater pearls could refer to pearls that form naturally in mussels or to cultured pearls. As a rule, a perfectly round freshwater pearl is cultured whereas a lumpy or elongated one is naturally formed. Freshwater pearls naturally occur in a far wider range of colors than saltwater pearls.
Cultured South Sea pearls come from Australia, Indonesia, Myanmar, and the Philippines. Pearl-producing oysters are native to the waters surrounding these nations. The same oyster species for which pearl divers searched are now the ones that produce the most valuable cultured pearls.
Photo by thepearlsource.com
South Sea pearls can grow to more than half an inch in diameter and have a deep, lustrous surface with few imperfections. White, blush, and golden pearls are the most sought-after varieties.
Akoya cultured pearls from Japanese oyster beds tend to be large, lustrous, and symmetrical. They are moderately priced for cultured pearls. White and cream-colored pearls fetch the highest prices, but these pearls are also available in pale pink, gold, and green. The colors occur naturally in these cultured saltwater pearls.
The black-lipped oyster that is native to reefs off the Tahitian coast produces pearls that match its shell: a rich bluish black with showy iridescence. Cultured Tahitian pearls have the same characteristic black nacre and are some of the most valuable cultivated pearls available.
Oysters cannot be seeded with more than one pearl blank at a time, so they are still costly even as cultured pearls. Some freshwater pearls that are dyed black may be sold as black pearls, but they are not Tahitian pearls and should be less costly.
Even cultured pearls take some time to produce and can be costly for projects requiring a large number of pearls. Pearly paints and enamels turn glass or plastic into pearl-like beads. For inexpensive craft uses and decorative objects, imitation pearl beads may be a good option.
Mica, fish scales, and other shimmering substances can be mixed into a plastic base and molded into beads while the substance is still warm. Other plastic beads are made from clear or white plastic that is then coated with pearlescent paint. Beads with a pearly luster throughout the plastic cost slightly more than painted pearl beads, but both are an inexpensive and lightweight facsimile for genuine cultured pearls.
Glass pearls have the weight of real pearls and are coated in pearly enamel or paint. Some glass pearls contain genuine pearl that has been ground finely and turned into a coating. Irregular or misshapen pearls that are not used for jewelry are a source of pearlescent paint. Glass pearls are common in vintage jewelry, but they are also still manufactured today.
Pearl cultivators use one of two grading systems to describe the quality of their wares. In the Japanese system, pearls are ranked from AAA to A, with AAA being the highest quality. The Tahitian system is slightly different and assigns grades of A through D to pearls. Because a grade of A is simultaneously the highest designation under the Tahitian system and the lowest grade in the Japanese system, pearl grading can be confusing. Unless the grading system used is obvious or explicitly stated, contact a seller to clear up any confusion if the pearls are to be used in fine jewelry.
In both systems, grading looks at the same characteristics: nacre thickness, luster, shape, and surface quality. A top-quality pearl has an almost mirror-like surface that is smooth and free of defects. Its luster is deep and richly iridescent. Its overall shape must be symmetrical; spherical pearls are the most valued, but a symmetrical teardrop or oval shape is also prized.
For fine jewelry, it is worth finding cultured pearls of better quality. For pearls to use as spacers in a beaded glass necklace or earrings, pearls farther down the scale are an excellent bargain.
Natural pearls occur in a wide variety of shapes, but cultured pearls generally take on the shape of the material used to cultivate them. Because cultivation allows pearl growers to determine the overall shape of the finished pearl before it grows, some starting materials are shaped like coins, teardrops, or other forms. The following table shows the most common pearl shapes.
Pearl necklaces remain one of the most popular ways to wear pearls. Necklaces are sold according to the diameter of their pearls, and larger pearls typically fetch a higher price.
A well-made necklace features knots between each pearl so that a broken strand will not allow all of the pearls to slip off and become lost. Jewelry sellers may also feature these necklaces by their traditional names instead of by their length in inches; use the following table to become familiar with these names (Lenght - Name).
Pearls may no longer command the royal prices they once did, but the beautiful gems are just as luminous as ever. Now that they are more affordable, pearls grace everything from bridal gowns to bedspreads. Pearls can cost as little as a few pennies for a handful or thousands of dollars for a single natural specimen, but all of them are easier to find online.
Pearls come from oysters or mussels, so unlike other gems, they are a renewable resource. Most mollusks form pearls, but only those from certain species of oysters and mussels have the luster and iridescence that makes them valuable.
The soft-bodied creatures cannot escape from irritants that find their way into the animals' shells, so they protect themselves by coating the offending item with layers of nacre, the substance that gives pearls their lustrous shine.
When pearls could be cultured, their value took a precipitous drop. With improvements in imitation glass and plastic pearls, the genuine gems dipped in value again. Pearls and pearly materials have become affordable enough to use as everyday jewelry and even decorative items.
Types of Pearls
Until the 20th century, pearls could not be cultivated and occurred naturally, which meant that pearls were quite rare. Divers in pearl-producing regions brought up and opened hundreds of oysters to find a single pearl, and the pearls produced were not always the round and luminous gems suitable for jewelry. Almost all pearls today are cultured.
Pearl makers do not always agree on the terminology of their products. Some trade names mean different things to different companies, and a few are hotly debated. When buying pearls online, consider the quality of the pearl instead of focusing on the trade name.
Natural Pearls
True natural pearls are made entirely of nacre and can cost thousands of dollars per pearl for large, round gems with good color.
They occur randomly in pearl-producing species of oysters, so matching them for a pair of earrings or a whole strand can take a jeweler years of effort. Genuine natural pearl strands are almost impossible to find new, and vintage strands can cost millions.
However, the natural designation for pearls is not restricted. It has been appropriated by some manufacturers for any pearl that is produced by an oyster or mussel, including cultured pearls and freshwater pearls. Some sellers list their gems as natural freshwater pearls or natural cultured pearls to differentiate them from imitation pearls made of plastic or glass. Price is an indicator of a pearl's origin; a naturally occurring pearl will command a far higher price than other pearls.
Cultured Pearls
Cultured pearls are the same on the outside as natural pearls, and they share the same luster. The difference is on the inside. Cultured pearls start not from a natural irritant, but from a piece of foreign material introduced into the cultivated mollusk's shell.
X-rays can tell cultured pearls from natural pearls, but they are otherwise indistinguishable if the cultured pearls are of good quality. Inexpensive cultured pearls cost less because they are collected before they have a thick layer of nacre; they may have less depth or iridescence than high-quality cultured pearls.
Freshwater Pearls
Oysters are not the only mollusks that produce gem-quality pearls. Freshwater mussels also produce pearly nacre, so they can also make attractive pearls. Gems sold as freshwater pearls include small, elongated seed pearls as well as round, lustrous cultured pearls.
Their freshwater origin lowers the price of pearls, but it makes little difference in their appearance. Natural freshwater pearls could refer to pearls that form naturally in mussels or to cultured pearls. As a rule, a perfectly round freshwater pearl is cultured whereas a lumpy or elongated one is naturally formed. Freshwater pearls naturally occur in a far wider range of colors than saltwater pearls.
South Sea Pearls
Cultured South Sea pearls come from Australia, Indonesia, Myanmar, and the Philippines. Pearl-producing oysters are native to the waters surrounding these nations. The same oyster species for which pearl divers searched are now the ones that produce the most valuable cultured pearls.
Photo by thepearlsource.com
South Sea pearls can grow to more than half an inch in diameter and have a deep, lustrous surface with few imperfections. White, blush, and golden pearls are the most sought-after varieties.
Akoya Pearls
Akoya cultured pearls from Japanese oyster beds tend to be large, lustrous, and symmetrical. They are moderately priced for cultured pearls. White and cream-colored pearls fetch the highest prices, but these pearls are also available in pale pink, gold, and green. The colors occur naturally in these cultured saltwater pearls.
Tahitian Pearls
The black-lipped oyster that is native to reefs off the Tahitian coast produces pearls that match its shell: a rich bluish black with showy iridescence. Cultured Tahitian pearls have the same characteristic black nacre and are some of the most valuable cultivated pearls available.
Oysters cannot be seeded with more than one pearl blank at a time, so they are still costly even as cultured pearls. Some freshwater pearls that are dyed black may be sold as black pearls, but they are not Tahitian pearls and should be less costly.
Imitation Pearl Beads
Even cultured pearls take some time to produce and can be costly for projects requiring a large number of pearls. Pearly paints and enamels turn glass or plastic into pearl-like beads. For inexpensive craft uses and decorative objects, imitation pearl beads may be a good option.
Plastic Pearls
Mica, fish scales, and other shimmering substances can be mixed into a plastic base and molded into beads while the substance is still warm. Other plastic beads are made from clear or white plastic that is then coated with pearlescent paint. Beads with a pearly luster throughout the plastic cost slightly more than painted pearl beads, but both are an inexpensive and lightweight facsimile for genuine cultured pearls.
Glass Pearls
Glass pearls have the weight of real pearls and are coated in pearly enamel or paint. Some glass pearls contain genuine pearl that has been ground finely and turned into a coating. Irregular or misshapen pearls that are not used for jewelry are a source of pearlescent paint. Glass pearls are common in vintage jewelry, but they are also still manufactured today.
Pearl Quality
Pearl cultivators use one of two grading systems to describe the quality of their wares. In the Japanese system, pearls are ranked from AAA to A, with AAA being the highest quality. The Tahitian system is slightly different and assigns grades of A through D to pearls. Because a grade of A is simultaneously the highest designation under the Tahitian system and the lowest grade in the Japanese system, pearl grading can be confusing. Unless the grading system used is obvious or explicitly stated, contact a seller to clear up any confusion if the pearls are to be used in fine jewelry.
In both systems, grading looks at the same characteristics: nacre thickness, luster, shape, and surface quality. A top-quality pearl has an almost mirror-like surface that is smooth and free of defects. Its luster is deep and richly iridescent. Its overall shape must be symmetrical; spherical pearls are the most valued, but a symmetrical teardrop or oval shape is also prized.
For fine jewelry, it is worth finding cultured pearls of better quality. For pearls to use as spacers in a beaded glass necklace or earrings, pearls farther down the scale are an excellent bargain.
Shapes of Pearls
Natural pearls occur in a wide variety of shapes, but cultured pearls generally take on the shape of the material used to cultivate them. Because cultivation allows pearl growers to determine the overall shape of the finished pearl before it grows, some starting materials are shaped like coins, teardrops, or other forms. The following table shows the most common pearl shapes.
- Round - Round pearls have the classic spherical shape that is the most popular choice for necklaces and earrings.
- Seed - Small, irregular pearls that resemble grains of rice are termed seed pearls both for their small size and their shape.
- Coin - Flat, disc-shaped pearls that resemble coins have become popular as fashion jewelry.
- Baroque - Baroque pearls have irregular, organic shapes that follow no known pattern. They are often used as distinctive pendants.
- Mabe - Mabe pearls are hemispherical and may still have part of the shell attached. They are set into rings and earrings.
Pearl necklaces remain one of the most popular ways to wear pearls. Necklaces are sold according to the diameter of their pearls, and larger pearls typically fetch a higher price.
A well-made necklace features knots between each pearl so that a broken strand will not allow all of the pearls to slip off and become lost. Jewelry sellers may also feature these necklaces by their traditional names instead of by their length in inches; use the following table to become familiar with these names (Lenght - Name).
- 12 inches -Collar
- 14 - 16 in. - Choker
- 18 - 22 in. - Princess
- 24 - 26 in. - Matinee
- 30 -34 in. - Opera
- 45+ inches - Rope
Pearls may no longer command the royal prices they once did, but the beautiful gems are just as luminous as ever. Now that they are more affordable, pearls grace everything from bridal gowns to bedspreads. Pearls can cost as little as a few pennies for a handful or thousands of dollars for a single natural specimen, but all of them are easier to find online.
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